Base Car Purchase -
The selection of a base car was critical in determining how difficult the project would be. In short, I wanted a car that:
1. Had as much
original metal as possible, but not the original engine(don't want to
ruin an original car). Original metal just seems to fit better and
is typically a heavier gauge of metal
2. Had little to no rust and as little bondo as possible
3. Had never been wrecked or had major repairs
3. Was nearby(California) so my shipping costs wouldn't be too bad
Those were my only requirements. I didn't care at all about the electrical, interior, engine, drivetrain, or anything else because all that would be replaced. I just wanted a solid, straight, rust-free body so as to avoid heavy bodywork and labor costs.
I
purchased my base car on eBay in May of 2006 for $17200. The
seller had a decent track record so I trusted his description of the car
and he provided plenty of photos. I actually got the seller
to end the auction early with a decent offer. I sent the guy a
cashier's check for the total without ever meeting him or seeing the
car(yah, I'm a little overly trusting of people). Making him an
offer to end the auction early turned out to be a great idea because he
forgot to end the auction after he received my payment and other people
bid the car up to $18200 with a day to go! It took about a week to
get the car down to San Diego from San Francisco. The photo to the
right is an actual photo of the car after it rolled off the transport.
Needless to say, I was very anxious to see the condition of the car that
I now owned. The next morning, I made the following assessment:
1. All original
except the cowl hood
2. Surface rust in trunk pan, forward parts of floor pans, and
some areas of the underside of the roof, but all easily repairable.
A few other minor spots on the doors. A major spot on the lower
portions of both fendors. Will need metal replaced there.
3. Some small bondo repairs to various parts of the car, but very
minor(ding repairs)
4. Patch panel installed to left quarter panel with major body
work done(although done well)
5. Rear tail panel needs some work
6. Front header panel needs replacing
Overall, I was a little disappointed. It was not as great as I had
hoped for, but at the same time, it could have been worse I guess.
There are always surprises when you buy cars like this, so I kinda
prepared myself for it. The great news was that the car was very
straight, the panel fitment was already good, and most of the body work
that had been done was done well. The interior and mechanical
condition of the car was decent, enough so that I was able to sell the
following items that I wouldn't need to lower the actual cost of the
base car:
| Sold Items | |
| 350 Chevy Engine and all accessories | 550 |
| Flowmaster mufflers and 3" exhaust(ended at axle) | 105 |
| 8.2" 10-bolt rearend and leaf springs | 30 |
| Dash clock | 180 |
| Original front Seats | 300 |
| original fuel gauge and speedo | 60 |
| Holley 600 carburetor | 105 |
| Original driveshaft | 135 |
| Headers | 50 |
| Original Shifter | 60 |
| Upper A Arms | 25 |
| Shock Plates | 40 |
| Steering Column | 30 |
| Original Wiring | 50 |
| SS Grille | 20 |
| SS Headlight Components | 20 |
| Original Transmission cooling lines | 50 |
| TOTAL | -1810 |
So the actual cost of my base car ended up being about $15400 if you subtract the parts I sold. Yes, I could have paid less, but I only need to replace one panel(the header panel), have a lot of other great original parts to work with, and do not need to do much body work. So, all-in-all, not too bad for getting off to a decent rolling start. Also, it's an original '69 Camaro, not a COPY(Dynacorn) of '69 Camaro that must be titled as a 2008 Camaro.
For all
comments or questions write to
chrisr@69CamaroProject.com.
This material may not
be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed. Copyright © 2008,2009 Chris
Robinson.